Kraft Hotel Florence · The Bridges of Florence
A JOURNEY ALONG THE LUNGARNI (RIVER-PATHS) OF THE RIVER DISCOVERING
THE BRIDGES OF FLORENCE AND THE SHORES OF THE ARNO
Besides being considered a means of connecting various parts of the city,
Ponte Vecchio bridge is a true monument. During the journey that we are
proposing, it is important to pause and observe its valuable and artistical
structure which in fact often, with the rush of reaching another part
of the city, is taken for granted and considered only as something to
be crossed. The reconstruction of many bridges after World War II was
common, with the exception of Ponte Vecchio, the symbol of the city. We
invite you to a short story which can be followed strolling along the
riverpaths (lungarni) of the River, admiring monuments and landscapes,
pausing in local cafe's and resting on the grass of a field along the
river.
A walk which can take an entire day or only a few hours, but nonetheless
able to transmit the lifestyle of the Florentines who have constructed
their history around the river.
THE RIGHT BANK OF THE ARNO
Di qua d'Arno (this side of the Arno) is the name the Florentines gave
to the more qualified part of the city, where the government and major
monuments were found. A journey which passes the most beautiful historical
buildings and takes us towards the countryside. Leaving the Hotel Kraft,
in only a few minutes, you can reach the pathway of the river. From the
swimming pool of the hotel you can see the Lungarno Vespucci (Vespucci
Riverpath) ( 
) which takes you up to Ponte alla Vittoria (bridge to Victory), once
called San Leopoldo (
), one of the two suspension bridges in Florence, the other being San
Ferdinando. Ponte alla Vittoria was built in 1946. Il Parco delle Cascine
(park of barnhouses) extends from this bridge, for over three kilometers,
up until the next bridge Ponte all'Indiano (bridge to the Indian).
*see the journey of the Cascine on this same site
Following on towards the historical center and keeping the river on the
right, you will find Ponte Amerigo Vespucci (
) which, constructed in 1957, is the only new after-war construct to be
found in the Old City. Continuing for another few hundred meters, on the
left you will arrive in Piazza Ognissanti where the baroque facade of
the church emerges.
After another few hundred meters we can find Ponte alla Carraia (bridge
to carriage gateway).
PONTE ALLA CARRAIA
The original bridge, from the medieval epoque, was rebuilt several times
because of collapses. By the will of Cosimo I, the architect Ammannati,
projected another which resisted up until the retreat of the Germans.
The present bridge dates back to 1948 and was projected ny E. Fagioli.
Its antique name derives from the fact that it was crossed by carriages.
In front of the bridge (
), at the corner meeting Piazza Goldoini, we find Palazzo Riscasoli (Ricasoli
Palace) attributed to Michelozzo. Here the Lungarno Ricasoli (Ricasoli
Riverpath) begins which gets its name from its homonymous Palace and which
extends up until Via Tornabuoni at the height of Palazzo Corsini, where
the homonymous Lungarno begins taking us to Piazza Santa Trinita.
PONTE DI SANTA TRINITA (
)
IIts name is referred to the Piazza to which it is connected, where the
antique church of Santa Trinita appears. To note the particularity of
the accent on the first syllable of the word referring nonetheless to
the word trinit. Its history is long and tormented because of its various
collapses at the flood of the River Arno. The origianl bridge in wood,
dates back to 1252 (
). At the four extremities you can observe the beautiful statues from
1628 which represent the four seasons.
In 1944 the bridge was brought down by the Germans on their withdrawl
and was reconstructed in 1952 by R. Gizdulich; a genuine copy of the bridge
architected by Ammannati, along with the original statues that were refound
and restored.
PONTE VECCHIO
This is Florence's most celebrated bridge as well as being the symbol
of the city. Famous for its jewelery shops which populate the bridge giving
it a romantic and vital aspect, it was reconstructed in 1345 by Taddeo
Gaddi and Neri di Fioravanti to substitute the antique Roman epoque bridge
that had been so often beaten by the flood of the Arno. Knowing how to
make history, in fact, it was the only bridge in the city that the Germans
saved from damage at their retreat in 1944. It has three large archways
and hosts the bust of Benvenuto Cellini di Raffaello Romanelli (
).
After Ponte Vecchio we continue on under Corridoio Vasariano (Vasariano
Corridor) which brings us to Palazzo Pitti (Pitti Palace) arriving at
the Lungarno degli Archibusieri and on the left we find the Galleria dei
Uffizi (Gallery of the Uffizi) with a splendid sight of Palazzo Vecchio.
The first piazza that we encounter is Piazza de' Giudici dominated by
Palazzo Castellani, once named Palazzo dei Giudici, made in stone, with
three floors of windows mortared to the ground floor and then to ashlars.
Inside you will find the Museo di Storia della Scienza (Museum of the
History of Science) with faithful reproductions of machines by Leonardo
da Vinci and telescopes by Galileo Galilei.
At this point of our journey we have the possibility to go down to the
shore of the Arno taking advantage of the ramp which takes you to the
club "Canottieri" (Canoeing) which has its seat right on the river (
).
From here it is possible to have a rest on the green and to watch athletes,
from the club, training on the water. Here we proceed down the Lungarno
delle Grazie (Riverpath of Graces) that takes us up to Ponte alle Grazie
(Bridge to the Graces).
PONTE ALLE GRAZIE
Built in 1237, it was the third bridge to go up in Florence. (
).
It is called Ponte alle Grazie, because of the church of Santa Maria alle
Grazie (mid 16th centery), built upon its pillars. Positioned in the widest
part of the river, it connects Via dei Benci con Piazza de'Mozzi. Originally,
it was entirely stone and nine archways long. Of these nine, two were
closed in 1347 to enlarge Piazza dei Mozzi and in the 19th century a third
was closed to build the lungarno (
).
On the pillars of the bridge numerous oratories and chapels were built
along with several boutiques beginning in 1292. The Ponte alle Grazie
was the only bridge not to be destoryed by the flood of 1333 and resisted
all other floods as well. In 1876 the necessity to adapt the width of
the bride for tram passage, made it necessary to demolish the construction
off the pillars and build sidewalks in cast iron.
Destroyed by the Germans in 1944, the bridge was reconstructed in 1957
by Giovanni Michelucci, Edoardo Detti, Riccardo Gizdulich, Danielo Santi
and Piero Melucci,winners of the Bandito Competition in 1945.
Continuing on we get to Piazza dei Cavalleggeri where the bulk of the
Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale (National Central Library) appears built
between 1911 and 1935 on the premises of a miliarty barrack quarters and
then along the Lungarno Generale Diaz we will find Palazzo Alberti-Malenchini,
a composition of antique houses from 1236 of the family Alberti, the birthplace
of Leon Battista Alberti, consolidated in 1850 for the construction of
the palazzo.
Following down Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia (Riverpath of the Old Coinage)
we find Torre della Zecca Vecchia (Tower of the Old Coinage) at one time,
but now destroyed, surrounded by a nucleus composed of windmills, which
in the past hosted the Florentine Zecca, of houses, of public baths made
of red brick, and of the bulwark of Mongibello. Staying with the river
you pass Pescaia di San Niccol which adheres to Piazza Piave, built with
the aim of allowing a consistent flow of water in order to put into movement
the windmills that are found here, even during difficult times. Here we
can go down to the river for a break where you can find ample, shady gardens
with a food-stand for snacks and drinks. You can also find row-boats for
rent for an excursion on the river.
About 100 meters farther on we find Ponte San Niccol which unites Viale
Amendola with Viale Michelangiolo ahead, the first tract of what is commonly
called Viale dei Colli (Boulevard of the Hills).
At this point you can cross the bridge and catch the electirc bus which
takes you back to the historical center and from there in a short time
to the Hotel Kraft.
PONTE SAN NICCOL
In 1890, this bridge was in fact built to substitute that which was entitled
to San Ferdinando in 1835. In 1939 after various collapses, a new one,
projected by Riccardo Morandi was built in wrought iron and completed
in 1949 (
).
At a distance you can see Ponte da Verrazzano where you can arrive walking
along shady gardens admiring a landscape of greenery with the Tuscany
hills as its background.
PONTE DA VERRAZZANO
Built in 1965 by C. Damerini, L. Savioli, and V. Scalesse, it is the most
recent bridge which connects to the south side of the city.
The first part of the journey finishes here and we can cross the bridge
to contiue the return trip on the other side of the river.
THE LEFT BANK OF THE ARNO
Di la d'Arno is the name that the Florentines gave to the less noble part
of the city.
Location of artisans and shops but certainly not less gifted with works
of art.
A shady journey with intervals of gardens in the first part up until Ponte
Vecchio and strolling along characteristic streets in the second part
taking you back to the Hotel Kraft. Just after crossing the bridge Ponte
da Verrazzano on the right we find a shady garden which hosts another
popular canoeing club where you can stop for a refreshing break.
The journey continues down a tree-lined boulevard up to Ponte San Niccol
which unites Viale Amendola with Viale Michelangiolo ahead, the first
tract of what is commonly called Viale dei Colli (Boulevard of the Hills)
as mentioned earlier.
Now we follow Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, constructed in 1866 during the
reconstructive work done in Florence, the capital of Italy, which also
underwent consequent modifications to the pre-existing urban plot. Keepimg
with the river we pass the Pescaia di San Niccol which on this side adheres
to Piazza Poggi, built with the aim of forcing a consistent flow of water
to put into movement the windmills that are found here. Piazza Poggi,
projected by Poggi in 1866, is dominated by Porta di San Niccol (the door
of Saint Niccol). Constructed in 1324, perhaps by the works of Orcagna,
it is the only tower among those medieval to have maintained a large part
of it original characteristics. The Torre of San Niccol was the only one
not to be lowered in the 16th century and conserves even today its height
of 35 meters.
In the 1800's its embattled crowning was no longer figurative and was
re-integrated in a future restoration. It presents three large archs overlapped
with walkways and stairs, and in the entrance you will find a fresco dating
back to the beginning of the 1400's representing the Madonna with Child
and Saints. Before the intervention of Poggi, between the door and pescaia
(catch) appeared a large group of windmills existing already from 1164
and property of, along with all the surrounding hills, the Monks of San
Miniato. Today, in their place, you will find a garden overhanging the
river.
From Piazza Poggi you can choose one of two parallel courses:
1) The first proceeds along the Lungarno Serristori where on your right
you encounter Palazzo Serristori meeting corners with Piazza Demidoff,
dating to 1515 but modified by Mariano Falcini in 1873. Having passed
Piazza Demidoff you then arrive at Ponte alle Grazie and at the start
of Lungarno Torrigiani.
2) The second course instead takes you down Via San Niccol, an antique
street of the quarters, framed by houses that have maintained their typical
medieval characteristics. To your left Via San Miniato begins which takes
you to the Porta di San Miniato, conserved in its 1300's characteristic,
with a walkway on the walls sustained by hanging arches. On the right
of Via San Niccol you have the Church of San Niccol oltr'Arno with a bell
shaped facade and a large central eye.
Continuing on you will arrive at different palaces including the 1500's
Palazzo Del Rosso-Vitelli at number 54, and Palazzo Demidoff-Amici, at
number 56, whose facade had been altered in 1600 by Alfonso Parigi il
Giovane. At number 93 there is Palazzo Vegni-Gianni-Leonetti, dating back
to 1500 but whose facade had been restored in 1800 by Giuseppe Martelli,
which today hosts a university faculty. Reaching number 107 we have Palazzo
Nasi, previously owned by the family Qauratesi, with 1400's graffiti on
its facade, and at number 117 Palazzo Pecori-Giraldi with a coat of arms
showing a standing lion.
Then we arrive in Piazza de' Mozzi which covers the three arches grounded
by Ponte alle Grazie, once extending up to Via San Niccol. In the Piazza
you will find the three palaces of Mozzi with their facades in stone.
Hosted here were famous people from Gregorio the 10th, for peace between
Guelfi and Ghibellini in 1273, and Gualtiero di Brenne, Duke of Athens,
in 1326. The palaces were purchased in the 1800's by Stefano Bardini who
at number 1 of the piazza projected his own private museum, restructuring
and adapting the 200th century church of San Gregorio della Pace along
with its relative convent.
Almost at the corner between Piazza de' Mozzi and Lungarno Torrigiani
you will find Palazzo Torrigiani. Built in the first half of the 1500's
by Domenico di Baccio d'Agnolo by his father's design, it was modified
after the construction of the lungarno. In 1901 a Luthern church was built
in the garden which became public. Continuing down the lungarno on the
left we find Palazzo Capponi, a medieval directional once called Borgo
Pitiglioso (pidocchioso),whose depth reaches Via dei Bardi a continuance
of the via San Niccol. Erected by Lorenzo di Bicci for Niccol da Uzzano,
the front of the palace faces Lungarno Torrigiani which was re-done by
Poggi in 1866 after the amputation it undertook for the construction of
the lungarno. Via dei Bardi and Lungarno Torrigiani converge into Piazza
Santa Maria Soprano. To the left in the corner between the piazza and
Via dei Bardi we find Palazzo Tempi once Bargagli-Petrucci, altered in
the 1600's by Matteo Nigetti and crossed over by Costa dei Magnoli. We
remain on Via dei Bardi whose last tract is charcterized by three buildings
from the 1900's including those, at numbers 44 and 48, done by Architect
Italo Gamberini. Then we pass under Corridoio Vasariano where on the right
we see the antique tower of Mannelli built on the head of Ponte Vecchio.
Leaving Ponte Vecchio on the right, we proceed down Borgo San Jacopo,
an old stretch of road that from Ponte Vecchio takes you to Pisa. Here,
right off, you find the 12th century tower of Rossi-Cerchi, partly re-done
after the war, meanwhile at number 9 the two side towers of Belfredelli
and Ramaglianti face the tower of Barbadori at number 54/r. At number
17 is the tower of the Marsili and at number 30 the tower of Angiolieri.
A bit farther on we arrive at the 10th century church of San Jacopo sopr'Arno,
which is today used for cultural manifestations. Adjecent to the church
is the Palace dei Frescobaldi that hosted Carlo di Valois on his mission
for pease in Florence in 1301. We find ourselves in Piazza Frescobaldi.
At the corner between Via dello Sprone and Borgo San Iacopo there is a
fountain with large masks and bag-like basins situated under a hanging
loggia with medieval arms. A small work of urban art by Buontalenti.
We proceed along Lungarno Guicciardini, once an elegant path of the Florentines
together with the lungarno opposite it. On the left we fing the 14th century
Palazzo Capponi at number 1, and Palazzo Coverelli at the corner. Palazzo
Guicciardini, modified by Giuseppe Poggi, is at number 7 and at number
9 there is the 15th century Palazzo Lanfredini with its facead done by
Baccio d'Agnolo, uplifted in the 1800's. Finally Palazzo Medici-Soderini
which todays hosts a Presbyterian church. Following down Lungarno Soderini
until we arrive in Piazza di Cestello where we can see the unfinished
facade of San Frediano Cestello.
On
the right we find the bridge Amerigo Vespucci constructed in 1957 and
the only bridge built ex-new after the war, to be found inside the old
city. Here the lungarno finishes sheltered by 13th centry walls. The passage
door towards Lungarno Santa Rosa is from the 18th century. Without passing
the door and remaining inside the walls, we arrive in Piazza Verzaia where
the antique Porta San Frediano appears. A part of the 13th century walls.
Porta San Frediano went up between 1332 and 1334 and is attributed to
Andrea Pisano.
Together with all the other doors, with the exception of that of San Niccol,
it was lowered by Clemente VII in 1526. Like Porta Romana, it had an antidoor
because attacks by the enemy from the south (Livorno and Siena) were more
probable. It still conserves its antique shutters and on the sides of
the tower you can still see the remains of the patrol chimney which connected
it to the antique walls.
At this point out two itineraries unite.
Only a short walk back again, we cross the bridge and return to Hotel
Kraft, on the right bank of the Arno.
